"Being at war and the downturn in the economy has set a more serious tone to business," says Sherry Maysonave, communication-image consultant and author of "Casual Power" (Bright Books, $29.95).

Another reason Maysonave cites for the increased formality: Interviewers know they will have to turn down many applicants, so they are hesitant to build rapport with each person.

Mary Lou Andre, Boston-based editor of www.dressingwell.com, also has seen this trend. "People are buttoning it up a bit. Americans are much more serious right now and it's reflected in the dress code."

Does this mean business casual is a thing of the past? "Business casual isn't gone, but sloppy casual is," offers Maysonave.

If money is tight, spending cash on clothes might make you nervous. But Andre sees it this way: "An ugly fact of life is that image does matter. Investing some money in your professional wardrobe makes it easier for people to invest back in you. It's really about thinking about your visual resume as much as your paper resume."

To look as polished as possible, Andre and Maysonave say the first step is to find out what the dress code is for the company as well as for the department you might be joining.

Then pick a tailored suit and make sure the jacket collar has a lapel. As for pants versus skirt, Andre says: "Pants suits are as powerful if not more powerful than a skirt today. It's very authoritative, very current."

But she adds that the determining factor is what works with your sense of style. "If you feel your personal best in a skirt, then by all means wear it."

Maysonave says you can never go wrong with a skirted suit, especially for the first interview.

"If you're uncertain about the dress code, go with a skirt. Just make sure it's not too short."

She advises that the length should be between the bottom of your knee and 3 inches above that point. If you want to wear a shorter skirt, test it by sitting down and seeing that it doesn't slide up or look too tight.

And she emphasizes: Do not wear a skirt in the mid-calf range. "It will age you and make you look out of sync with the times," she says.

The experts agree that dark-colored suits work best and bright colors should be saved for accent pieces. Other options to avoid? Floral prints, shoes with an open toe or heel, and thigh-high boots. (Knee boots are OK if you are in a creative field.) And always wear high-quality hose, even if you opt for a pants suit.

Wear tastefully applied makeup and choose simple jewelry. Make sure your hair is well groomed in a stylish cut, and if your hair is longer than 2 to 3 inches past your shoulders, pull it back or put it up with a simple band or barrette, Maysonave adds.

Andre says the biggest mistake she sees women make is wearing clothes that don't fit. An oversized outfit will drown out your message; a skimpy suit may make people uncomfortable around you.

Andre also offers this rule of thumb: Unprofessional attire is anything that might distract a listener from what you're saying. For example, wrinkled clothes or dangling, jangling jewelry may catch the eye or ear of the interviewer and take his or her mind off of your message.

On the second interview, you should vary your look, but it's still important to have a tailored jacket. Maysonave exhorts women to stay away from sweater sets. "They scream entry level," she says.

Once you've landed the job, continue to follow the dress code. Andre says she often hears human resources people complain that a new employee looked great at the interview but has since slobbed out.